Current Science

Open Access Open Access  Restricted Access Subscription Access

Seasonal Variation in Nearshore Wave Characteristics off Cuddalore, Southeast Coast of Tamil Nadu, India


Affiliations
1 Coastal and Environmental Engineering Division, National Institute of Ocean Technology, Pallikaranai, Chennai 600 100, India
 

Wave data collected using wave rider buoy between January 2010 and January 2011 off Cuddalore coast, Tamil Nadu, India, have been analysed season-wise in this study. Wave steepness method was used for the separation of sea and swell wave parameters. Also parameters such as significant wave height of total wave, sea and swell (Hs, Hsw and Hss), zero crossing periods (Tz, Tsw and Tss) and mean wave directions (θ, θsw and θss) have been studied. The study shows a distinct shift in sea wave direction of about 90° between June and October as well as November and February. Throughout the year, the predominant swell direction remained around 135°. The contribution in total Hs by Hsw was 76% and the remaining 24% by Hss in the yearly cycle. The sea wave height was dominant by more than 90% during November to May. Regression analysis showed good positive Pearson's correlation of 0.94 between Hs and Hsw; however, it was 0.65 between Hs and Hss. The maximum and significant wave heights of 5.7 and 2.7 m were recorded during cyclone Jal on 7 November 2010.

Keywords

Regression Analysis, Seasonal Variation, Spectral Energy Density, Wave Characteristics.
User
Notifications
Font Size

  • Earle, M. D., Development of algorithms for separation of sea and swell. US National Data Buoy Center Technical Report MEC-87-153, 1984.

  • Semedo, A., Suselj, K., Ruthersson, A. and Sterl, A., A global view on the wind sea and swell climate and variability from ERA-40. J. Climate, 2011, 24, 1461–1479.

  • Wang, W. D. and Hwang, P. A., An operational method for separating wind sea and swell from Ocean wave spectra. J. Atmos. Oceanic Technol., 2001, 18, 2052–2062.

  • Sanil Kumar, V., Pathak, K. C., Pednekar, P., Raju, N. S. N. and Gowthaman, R., Coastal processes along the Indian coastline. Curr. Sci., 2006, 91, 530–536.

  • Mishra, P., Patra, S. K., Ramana Murthy, M. V., Mohanty, P. K. and Panda, U. S., Interaction of monsoonal wave, current and tide and their impact on beach profiles – a case study at Gopalpur, east coast of India. Nat. Hazards, 2011, 59, 1145–1159.

  • Johnson, G., Sanil Kumar, V. and Balakrishnan Nair, T. M., Monsoon and cyclone induced wave climate over the near shore waters off Puduchery, south western Bay of Bengal. Ocean Eng., 2013, 72, 277–286.

  • Sanil Kumar, V., Dubhashi, K. K. and Balakrishnan Nair, T. M., Wave spectral characteristics off Gangavaram, East coast of India. J. Oceanogr., 2014, 70, 307–321.

  • Sanil Kumar, V., Anand, N. M., Kumar, K. A. and Mandal, S., Multi peakedness and groupiness of shallow water waves along Indian coast. J. Coastal Res., 2003, 19(4), 1052–1065.

  • Aboobacker, V. M., Vethamony, P., Sudheesh, K. and Rupali, S., Spectral characteristics of the nearshore waves off Paradip, India during monsoon and extreme events. Nat. Hazards, 2009, 49(2), 311–323.

  • Suresh, R. R. V., Annapurnaiah, K., Reddy, K. G., Lakshmi, T. N. and Balakrishnan Nair, T. M., Wind sea and swell characteristics off east coast of India, during southwest monsoon. Int. J. Oceans Oceanogr., 2010, 4, 35–44.

  • Gowthaman, R., Sanil Kumar, V., Dwarakish, G. S., Mohan, S. S., Jai Singh and Ashok Kumar, K., Waves in Gulf of Mannar and Palk Bay around Dhanushkodi, Tamil Nadu, India. Curr. Sci., 2013, 104(10), 1431–1435.

  • Aboobacker, V. M., Rashmi, R., Vethamony, P. and Menon, H. B., On the dominance of pre-existing swells over wind seas along west coast of India. Cont. Shelf Res., 2011, 31, 1701–1712.

  • Catalogue of Indian Charts Electron Navigation Charts (ENCs) and Publications, National Hydrographic Office, Chart number3003, Dehradun, 2012.

  • Datawell, B. V., Datawell Wave Rider Reference Manual, Datawell BV, The Netherlands, 2006.

  • Gilhousen, D. B. and Hervey, R., Improved estimates of swell from moored buoys. Proceedings of the 4th International Symposium WAVES 2001, ASCE: Alexandria, Virginia, USA, 2001, pp. 387–393.

  • Patra, S. K. and Jena, B. K., Wave characteristics during severe cyclonic storm Jal, along east coast of India. WMO International Conference on Indian Ocean Tropical Cyclones and Climate Change (IOTCCC-2012) New Delhi, WWRP 2013–04, 2012, pp. 152–159.

  • Patra, S. K. et al., Cyclone and monsoonal wave characteristics of northwestern Bay of Bengal: long-term observations and modeling. Nat. Hazards, 2016, 82, 1051–1083.

  • Ranga Rao, V., Ramana Murthy, M. V., Bhat, M. and Reddy, N. T., Littoral sediment transport and shoreline changes along Ennore on the southeast coast of India: field observations and numerical modelling. Geomorphology, 2009, 112, 158–166.

  • Mohanty, P. K. et al., Impact of groins on beach morphology: a case study near Gopalpur Port, east coast of India. J. Coastal Res., 2012, 28, 132–142.


Abstract Views: 433

PDF Views: 149




  • Seasonal Variation in Nearshore Wave Characteristics off Cuddalore, Southeast Coast of Tamil Nadu, India

Abstract Views: 433  |  PDF Views: 149

Authors

Basanta Kumar Jena
Coastal and Environmental Engineering Division, National Institute of Ocean Technology, Pallikaranai, Chennai 600 100, India
Sisir K. Patra
Coastal and Environmental Engineering Division, National Institute of Ocean Technology, Pallikaranai, Chennai 600 100, India
K. Jossia Joseph
Coastal and Environmental Engineering Division, National Institute of Ocean Technology, Pallikaranai, Chennai 600 100, India
K. M. Sivakholundu
Coastal and Environmental Engineering Division, National Institute of Ocean Technology, Pallikaranai, Chennai 600 100, India

Abstract


Wave data collected using wave rider buoy between January 2010 and January 2011 off Cuddalore coast, Tamil Nadu, India, have been analysed season-wise in this study. Wave steepness method was used for the separation of sea and swell wave parameters. Also parameters such as significant wave height of total wave, sea and swell (Hs, Hsw and Hss), zero crossing periods (Tz, Tsw and Tss) and mean wave directions (θ, θsw and θss) have been studied. The study shows a distinct shift in sea wave direction of about 90° between June and October as well as November and February. Throughout the year, the predominant swell direction remained around 135°. The contribution in total Hs by Hsw was 76% and the remaining 24% by Hss in the yearly cycle. The sea wave height was dominant by more than 90% during November to May. Regression analysis showed good positive Pearson's correlation of 0.94 between Hs and Hsw; however, it was 0.65 between Hs and Hss. The maximum and significant wave heights of 5.7 and 2.7 m were recorded during cyclone Jal on 7 November 2010.

Keywords


Regression Analysis, Seasonal Variation, Spectral Energy Density, Wave Characteristics.

References





DOI: https://doi.org/10.18520/cs%2Fv112%2Fi10%2F2115-2121