Informatics Publishing Limited

Nisha Verma ¹, Neelam Grewal ¹, Inder Jeet Kaur ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Clothing and Textiles, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludiana, Punjab, IN

Abstract

The present study was carried out to add value to silk waste by developing blended as well as union handloom fabrics to increase the fabric range. Blending of mulberry silk waste and 24 micron wool was done at the Gillbox stage and the yarns were spun on worsted spinning system. The blend proportion of 65s:35w considered optimum was spun into 30s and 40s metric count (Nm) yarns to make twill woven fabrics. Two fabrics were developed using blended yarns having 2/30 Nm warp and 30 Nm weft (S₁) as well as 2/40 Nm warp and 40 Nm weft (S₂) yarns. Two union fabrics (S₃) and (S₄) were also made using pure wool warp and developed blended yarns in weft, respectively. Fabrics S₁ and S₂ exhibited excellent drapability, significantly lesser (p 3 and S₄ had excellent crease recovery, better dimensional stability, good thermal insulation, high breaking as well as tear strength. Fabric S₄ exhibited more drapability, and less flexural rigidity. The cost of production with 65s:35w blended yarn was much lesser in comparison to the yarn made from 100 per cent mulberry silk waste whereas variability from other blends was found to be very less. The estimated cost of blended fabrics developed was Rs. 376.70 per meter whereas the cost of developed union fabric with 100 per cent wool warp and 65s:35w weft was Rs. 327.63 per meter. Such cost effective handloom blended and union fabrics have the potential to enhance domestic and export earnings of the handloom weavers.

Keywords

Blended, Handloom, Mulberry Silk Waste, Union, Wool, Wor

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Mandeep Kaur ¹, Sandeep Bains ¹, Sumeet Kang Grewal ¹, Neelam Grewal ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana (Punjab), IN

Abstract

Handicrafts offer reflections to the artistic creativity rendered by the people of a region producing a traditional masterpiece even though moulded with the winds of time. These crafts serve as the ischolar_mains of the ethnic fashions that shape the trends and innovations of the coming future. Phulkari craft is from the land of five rivers - Punjab which has experienced such transformation emerging out of the changing times and trends. The artefact being an important element of the cultural heritage of Punjab needs to be revitalized. The various traditional aspects of the craft need to be compared with its modern form to review all transformations. Documentation of both traditional and contemporary articles worked with Phulkari embroidery was undertaken to study the historical aspects and the modifications. The work was an attempt to preserve the essence of the craft serving the interest of the future generations.

Keywords

Phulkari, Hand Embroidery, Motifs, Traditional Craft.

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