Research Journal of Topical and Cosmetic Sciences

Open Access Open Access  Restricted Access Subscription Access
Open Access Open Access Open Access  Restricted Access Restricted Access Subscription Access

Cosmetics Formulations containing Vitamin C and The Instability Challenge


Affiliations
1 Medicine Department, Graduate Program in Translational Medicine, Federal University of Sao Paulo, Rua Pedro de Toledo, 720 - 2º Floor, Zip Code: 01039032, São Paulo (SP), Brazil
2 Center for Dermal Research, The State University of New Jersey – Rutgers, 145 Bevier Rd, Piscataway, NJ 08854, United States
3 Faculty of Pharmaceutical Science, University of Campinas - Unicamp, Rua Cândido Portinari, 200, Zip Code: 13083-859, Campinas (SP), Brazil
     

   Subscribe/Renew Journal


Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is widely used in skin care products, yet it is a challenging compound due to its physical and chemical instability. Severalstrategies have been applied to improve the stability of vitamin C, such as the addition of other antioxidants in the system (e.g., Vitamin E, ferulic acid, and sodium metabisulfite). In addition, clay minerals have been used in cosmetic preparations due to their high ion-exchange capacity, thermal stability, softness, the small size of their particles, and their attractive adsorptive properties. In this study, we proposed the association of kaolin clay and well-known antioxidants and chelators to improve the stability of vitamin C. Although the kaolin clay alone did not improve the stability of the vitamin C, the clay mineral in association with certain chelators and/or antioxidants could improve the stability of formulations containing vitamin C.

Keywords

Ascorbic acid, Clay minerals, Chemical stability, HPLC
Subscription Login to verify subscription
User
Notifications
Font Size


  • Rincón-Fontán M et al. Novel Multifunctional Biosurfactant Obtained from Corn as a Stabilizing Agent for Antidandruff Formulations Based on Zn Pyrithione Powder. ACS Omega. 2020 Mar 16;5(11):5704-5712. doi: 10.1021/acsomega.9b03679.

  • Caritá AC et al. Vitamin C: One compound, several uses. Advances for delivery, efficiency and stability. Nanomedicine. 2020 Feb;24:102117. doi: 10.1016/j.nano.2019.102117. Epub 2019 Oct 30.

  • Santhoshakumari Tmi et al. Role of vitamin c and vitamin E on hypertension. Asian J Pharm Clin Res. 2019; 12. doi:10.22159/ajpcr.2019.v12i9.32634.

  • Colven RM, Pinnell SR. Topical vitamin C in aging. Clin Dermatol. 1996 Mar-Apr;14(2):227-34. doi: 10.1016/0738-081x(95)00158-c.

  • Humbert PG et al. Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo. Exp Dermatol. 2003 Jun;12(3):237-44. doi: 10.1034/j.16000625.2003.00008.x.

  • Elhabak M et al. Topical delivery of l-ascorbic acid spanlastics for stability enhancement and treatment of UVB induced damaged skin. Drug Deliv. 2021 Dec;28(1):445-453. doi: 10.1080/10717544.2021.1886377.

  • Sunil Kumar BV et al. Anticancer potential of dietary vitamin D and ascorbic acid: A review. Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr. 2017 Aug 13;57(12):2623-2635. doi: 10.1080/10408398.2015.1064086.

  • Rupali Kirtawade, Pallavi Salve, Anita Kulkarni, Pandurang Dhabale. Herbal antioxidant: Vitamin C. Research J. Pharm. and Tech. 3(1): Jan.-Mar. 2010; Page 58-61.

  • Shrada. B. Kumar,. Dhanraj. M. Role of Vitamin C in Body Health. Research J. Pharm. and Tech 2018; 11(4): 1378-1380.

  • Nusgens BV et al. Topically applied vitamin C enhances the mRNA level of collagens I and III, their processing enzymes and tissue inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinase 1 in the human dermis. J Invest Dermatol. 2001 Jun;116(6):853-9. doi: 10.1046/j.0022202x.2001.01362.x.

  • Zhou W et al. Storage stability and skin permeation of vitamin C liposomes improved by pectin coating. Colloids Surf B Biointerfaces. 2014 May 1;117:330-7. doi: 10.1016/j.colsurfb.2014.02.036. Epub 2014 Mar 2.

  • Pullar JM et al. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients. 2017 Aug 12;9(8):866. doi: 10.3390/nu9080866.

  • Maia Campos PM et al. Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: stability studies and in vivo efficacy. Eur J Pharm Biopharm. 2012 Nov;82(3):580-6. doi: 10.1016/j.ejpb.2012.08.009.

  • Maia AM et al. Validation of HPLC stability-indicating method for Vitamin C in semisolid pharmaceutical/cosmetic preparations with glutathione and sodium metabisulfite, as antioxidants. Talanta. 2007 Feb 15;71(2):639-43. doi: 10.1016/j.talanta.2006.05.006. Epub 2006 Jun 12.

  • Stamford NP. Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2012 Dec;11(4):310-7. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12006.

  • Sheraz MA et al. Stability and Stabilization of Ascorbic Acid. A Rev. Household Pers. Care Today 2015;10(3):22-26.

  • Akansha Bhandarkar, et al. Formulation and Evaluation of Ascorbic acid Lozenges for the treatment of Oral Ulcer.Research J. Pharm. and Tech 2018; 11(4):1307-1312.doi: 10.5958/0974- 360X.2018.00243.3

  • Wardhani DH et al. Performance of glucomannan-alginate combination as a pH sensitive excipient of vitamin C encapsulation using gelation method. Int J Appl Pharm, 11, 185- 92.

  • Lin FH et al. Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2005 Oct;125(4):826-32. doi: 10.1111/j.0022-202X.2005.23768.x.

  • Kumari P et al. (2021) An recent advancement in topical dosage forms: a review. IJCPR, 13(1); 01-08.

  • Caritá AC et al . Stabilization of vitamin C in emulsions of liquid crystalline structures. Int J Pharm. 2021 Jan 5;592:120092. doi: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2020.120092.

  • Mota AH et al. Design and evaluation of novel topical formulation with olive oil as natural functional active. Pharm Dev Technol. 2018 Oct;23(8):794-805. doi: 10.1080/10837450.2017.1340951.

  • Moraes JDD et al. Clay minerals: Properties and applications to dermocosmetic products and perspectives of natural raw materials for therapeutic purposes-A review. Int J Pharm. 2017 Dec 20;534(1-2):213-219. doi: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2017.10.031.

  • Viseras, C., Carazo, E., Borrego-Sánchez, A., García-Villén, F., Sánchez-Espejo, R., Cerezo, P., & Aguzzi, C. (2019). Clay minerals in skin drug delivery. Clays and Clay Minerals, 67(1), 59–71. https://doi.org/10.1007/s42860-018-0003-7

  • Sharmin Reza Chowdhury, Mahfuza Maleque, Mahbubul Hoque Shihan. Development and Validation of a Simple RP-HPLC Method for Determination of Caffeine in Pharmaceutical Dosage Forms. Asian J. Pharm. Ana. 2(1): Jan.-Mar. 2012; Page 01-04.

  • Sharmin Reza Chowdhury, Mahfuza Maleque, Mahbubul Hoque Shihan. Development and Validation of a Simple RP-HPLC Method for Determination of Caffeine in Pharmaceutical Dosage Forms. Asian J. Pharm. Ana. 2(1): Jan.-Mar. 2012; Page 01-04.

  • Hamid Khan. Analytical Method Development in Pharmaceutical Research: Steps involved in HPLC Method Development. Asian J. Pharm. Res. 2017; 7(3): 203-207. Doi: 10.5958/22315691.2017.00031.4

  • Viseras, C., Aguzzi, C., Cerezo, P., & Lopezgalindo, A. (2007). Uses of clay minerals in semisolid health care and therapeutic products. Applied Clay Science, 36(1-3), 37–50. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.clay.2006.07.006

  • Lfa AR, J J. Synthesis of bentonite nanoclay and incorporation of cassia fistula leaf extract to form organobentonite: characterization and its biomedical applications. Asian J Pharm Clin Res. 2018;11. doi:http://dx.doi.org/10.22159/ajpcr.2018.v11i9.26717.

  • Awad ME et al. Kaolinite in pharmaceutics and biomedicine. Int J Pharm. 2017 Nov 25;533(1):34-48. doi:10.1016/j.ijpharm.2017.09.056.

  • Zhou Y et al. Molecular Structure and Decomposition Kinetics of Kaolinite/Alkylamine Intercalation Compounds. Front Chem. 2018 Jul 27;6:310. doi: 10.3389/fchem.2018.00310.

  • Detellier C. Functional Kaolinite. Chem Rec. 2018 Jul;18(7- 8):868-877. doi: 10.1002/tcr.201700072.

  • Zheng W et al. Formation of intercalation compound of kaoliniteglycine via displacing guest water by glycine. J Colloid Interface Sci. 2014 Oct 15;432:278-84. doi: 10.1016/j.jcis.2014.06.016..

  • Jafarbeglou M et al. Clay nanocomposites as engineered drug delivery systems. Rsc Adv. 2016;6(55):50002-16. doi: 10.1039/c6ra03942a.

  • Massaro M et al. The Use of Some Clay Minerals as Natural Resources for Drug Carrier Applications. J Funct Biomater. 2018 Oct 19;9(4):58. doi: 10.3390/jfb9040058.

  • Khurana IS et al. Multifaceted role of clay minerals in pharmaceuticals. Future Sci OA. 2015 Nov 1;1(3):FSO6. doi: 10.4155/fso.15.6.

  • Kenne Dedzo G, Detellier C. Characterization and Applications of Kaolinite Robustly Grafted by an Ionic Liquid with Naphthyl Functionality. Materials (Basel). 2017 Aug 29;10(9):1006. doi: 10.3390/ma10091006.

  • Elbokl TA, Detellier C. Intercalation of cyclic imides in kaolinite. J Colloid Interface Sci. 2008 Jul 15;323(2):338-48. doi: 10.1016/j.jcis.2008.04.003.

  • Kim MH et al. Review of Clay-Drug Hybrid Materials for Biomedical Applications: Administration Routes. Clays Clay Miner. 2016;64(2):115-130. doi: 10.1346/CCMN.2016.0640204.

  • Khatoon N et al . Nanoclay-based drug delivery systems and their therapeutic potentials. J Mater Chem B. 2020 Aug 26;8(33):7335- 7351. doi: 10.1039/d0tb01031f.

  • Ermi Abriyani, Lia Fikayuniar. Screening Phytochemical, Antioxidant Activity and Vitamin C Assay from Bungo perakperak (Begonia versicolar Irmsch) leaves. Asian J. Pharm. Res. 2020; 10(3):183-187.

  • Sankalp Goswami, et al.Phytopharmaceuticals as Cosmetic Agents: A Review. Res. J. Topical and Cosmetic Sci. 2(1): Jan. – June 2011 page 11-13

  • Sneha Mali, et,al. Overview of Nutraceuticals. Asian Journal of Pharmaceutical Research. 2022; 12(1):61-0. Doi: 10.52711/2231- 5691.2022.00010

  • D. A. Bhagwat, et, al. More. Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Lipstick using Lycopene Extracted from Solanum lycopersicum L. Research J. Pharm. and Tech. 2017; 10(4): 1060-1064.Doi: 10.5958/0974-360X.2017.00192.5

  • D. A. Bhagwat, et al. More. Formulation and Evaluation of Herbal Lipstick using Lycopene Extracted from Solanum lycopersicum L. Research J. Pharm. and Tech. 2017; 10(4): 1060-1064. Doi:10.5958/0974-360X.2017.00192.5


Abstract Views: 316

PDF Views: 0




  • Cosmetics Formulations containing Vitamin C and The Instability Challenge

Abstract Views: 316  |  PDF Views: 0

Authors

Jemima Daniela Shultz
Medicine Department, Graduate Program in Translational Medicine, Federal University of Sao Paulo, Rua Pedro de Toledo, 720 - 2º Floor, Zip Code: 01039032, São Paulo (SP), Brazil
Amanda C Caritá
Medicine Department, Graduate Program in Translational Medicine, Federal University of Sao Paulo, Rua Pedro de Toledo, 720 - 2º Floor, Zip Code: 01039032, São Paulo (SP), Brazil
Hana Mohd
Center for Dermal Research, The State University of New Jersey – Rutgers, 145 Bevier Rd, Piscataway, NJ 08854, United States
Bozena Michniak-Kohn
Center for Dermal Research, The State University of New Jersey – Rutgers, 145 Bevier Rd, Piscataway, NJ 08854, United States
Laura Moretti Aiello
Faculty of Pharmaceutical Science, University of Campinas - Unicamp, Rua Cândido Portinari, 200, Zip Code: 13083-859, Campinas (SP), Brazil
Gislaine Ricci Leonardi
Faculty of Pharmaceutical Science, University of Campinas - Unicamp, Rua Cândido Portinari, 200, Zip Code: 13083-859, Campinas (SP), Brazil

Abstract


Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is widely used in skin care products, yet it is a challenging compound due to its physical and chemical instability. Severalstrategies have been applied to improve the stability of vitamin C, such as the addition of other antioxidants in the system (e.g., Vitamin E, ferulic acid, and sodium metabisulfite). In addition, clay minerals have been used in cosmetic preparations due to their high ion-exchange capacity, thermal stability, softness, the small size of their particles, and their attractive adsorptive properties. In this study, we proposed the association of kaolin clay and well-known antioxidants and chelators to improve the stability of vitamin C. Although the kaolin clay alone did not improve the stability of the vitamin C, the clay mineral in association with certain chelators and/or antioxidants could improve the stability of formulations containing vitamin C.

Keywords


Ascorbic acid, Clay minerals, Chemical stability, HPLC

References