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Cosmetics Formulations containing Vitamin C and The Instability Challenge


Affiliations
1 Medicine Department, Graduate Program in Translational Medicine, Federal University of Sao Paulo, Rua Pedro de Toledo, 720 - 2º Floor, Zip Code: 01039032, São Paulo (SP), Brazil
2 Center for Dermal Research, The State University of New Jersey – Rutgers, 145 Bevier Rd, Piscataway, NJ 08854, United States
3 Faculty of Pharmaceutical Science, University of Campinas - Unicamp, Rua Cândido Portinari, 200, Zip Code: 13083-859, Campinas (SP), Brazil
     

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Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is widely used in skin care products, yet it is a challenging compound due to its physical and chemical instability. Severalstrategies have been applied to improve the stability of vitamin C, such as the addition of other antioxidants in the system (e.g., Vitamin E, ferulic acid, and sodium metabisulfite). In addition, clay minerals have been used in cosmetic preparations due to their high ion-exchange capacity, thermal stability, softness, the small size of their particles, and their attractive adsorptive properties. In this study, we proposed the association of kaolin clay and well-known antioxidants and chelators to improve the stability of vitamin C. Although the kaolin clay alone did not improve the stability of the vitamin C, the clay mineral in association with certain chelators and/or antioxidants could improve the stability of formulations containing vitamin C.

Keywords

Ascorbic acid, Clay minerals, Chemical stability, HPLC
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  • Cosmetics Formulations containing Vitamin C and The Instability Challenge

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Authors

Jemima Daniela Shultz
Medicine Department, Graduate Program in Translational Medicine, Federal University of Sao Paulo, Rua Pedro de Toledo, 720 - 2º Floor, Zip Code: 01039032, São Paulo (SP), Brazil
Amanda C Caritá
Medicine Department, Graduate Program in Translational Medicine, Federal University of Sao Paulo, Rua Pedro de Toledo, 720 - 2º Floor, Zip Code: 01039032, São Paulo (SP), Brazil
Hana Mohd
Center for Dermal Research, The State University of New Jersey – Rutgers, 145 Bevier Rd, Piscataway, NJ 08854, United States
Bozena Michniak-Kohn
Center for Dermal Research, The State University of New Jersey – Rutgers, 145 Bevier Rd, Piscataway, NJ 08854, United States
Laura Moretti Aiello
Faculty of Pharmaceutical Science, University of Campinas - Unicamp, Rua Cândido Portinari, 200, Zip Code: 13083-859, Campinas (SP), Brazil
Gislaine Ricci Leonardi
Faculty of Pharmaceutical Science, University of Campinas - Unicamp, Rua Cândido Portinari, 200, Zip Code: 13083-859, Campinas (SP), Brazil

Abstract


Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is widely used in skin care products, yet it is a challenging compound due to its physical and chemical instability. Severalstrategies have been applied to improve the stability of vitamin C, such as the addition of other antioxidants in the system (e.g., Vitamin E, ferulic acid, and sodium metabisulfite). In addition, clay minerals have been used in cosmetic preparations due to their high ion-exchange capacity, thermal stability, softness, the small size of their particles, and their attractive adsorptive properties. In this study, we proposed the association of kaolin clay and well-known antioxidants and chelators to improve the stability of vitamin C. Although the kaolin clay alone did not improve the stability of the vitamin C, the clay mineral in association with certain chelators and/or antioxidants could improve the stability of formulations containing vitamin C.

Keywords


Ascorbic acid, Clay minerals, Chemical stability, HPLC

References